Day 7: Snow, Seals and Bergs

So this day dawned early, but not so bright.  The announcement came at 6:30 a.m. over the PA that we were passing through the Lemaire Channel, a very narrow channel through which we had to pass in order to get to our next port.  So up we got in order to view the mountains rising in close range on either side of us as we passed through the channel;  however, the skies were overcast, there was  a light fog hanging over the mountains, and a fine snow blew across the ship.  These were not ideal conditions in which to view the majesty and mystique of this passage, but it was great nonetheless, not least of which was the way the captain had to manoeuvre the ship around a few icebergs and around the corners of the channel to pass through.  And apparently a channel has to be a certain distance across for ships to be allowed to pass through, and this one is on the narrower end of the spectrum. 

                                         The Lemaire Channel

Once we were through, it was on to breakfast and then a landing on Petermann Island.  Push took some much needed time off to rest his back while Sue kayaked her way silently around the island and got the best sighting of the Adelie penguins, a different species than we had otherwise seen.  I took the Zodiac across and walked the length of the island to see the penguins, albeit from a bit of a distance this time since they were on the beach below.  Although it was overcast and snowy, it did provide a nice contrast to the bright sun we had in the past few days.  After all, it’s Antarctica – how can you not have at least one cold snowy day?

After the landing it was back to the ship for lunch, a short nap (all this fresh air can get to you) and then back out in the Zodiacs for a tour of Pleneau Bay, also known as the iceberg graveyard, since many icebergs run aground here and never make it out again.  

                                      Pleneau Bay

This turned out to be a spectacular ride, not only because of the infinite variety of shapes these icebergs come in, or because of the incredible shades of blue we saw (which apparently were a result of the lack of sunshine this time, allowing the blue to come through more vividly), but because of what we saw around the corner of one of the icebergs.  Our expedition leader Tony called it by far the best thing he had seen on this trip so far.  And that was at least 30 seals foraging between two icebergs – swimming, diving, surfacing, snorting, rolling , and having a look at us, but certainly more interested in feeding on the krill that must have been extremely plentiful in this area.  It was quite a treat.  And not once, but three times they all surfaced and swam around before all diving back below the surface for another snack.  The surface of the water for about 20 metres square was literally alive with swimming seals.  Now you don’t see that at SeaWorld!

                                      A squadron of seals

After that it was back to the ship, and for those not faint of heart, the polar plunge!  Since there was not enough space on the deck out back of the ship where they do the plunge, spectators were not allowed, and since our one fearless adventurer was out of commission, we simply observed the plungers as they ran shivering down the halls and back to their cabins.   Then it was another lovely dinner, a little celebration of Greg and Melissa’s engagement where the serving staff prepared a happy engagement cake, and then Sea Spirit trivia in the lounge (no shuffleboard on the Lido deck here).  Now it’s off to bed.  Tomorrow we land in Port Lockroy, the southern most post office on the planet (and gift shop for that matter). So....

Until then......