Day 7: Snow, Seals and Bergs

So this day dawned early, but not so bright.  The announcement came at 6:30 a.m. over the PA that we were passing through the Lemaire Channel, a very narrow channel through which we had to pass in order to get to our next port.  So up we got in order to view the mountains rising in close range on either side of us as we passed through the channel;  however, the skies were overcast, there was  a light fog hanging over the mountains, and a fine snow blew across the ship.  These were not ideal conditions in which to view the majesty and mystique of this passage, but it was great nonetheless, not least of which was the way the captain had to manoeuvre the ship around a few icebergs and around the corners of the channel to pass through.  And apparently a channel has to be a certain distance across for ships to be allowed to pass through, and this one is on the narrower end of the spectrum. 

                                         The Lemaire Channel

Once we were through, it was on to breakfast and then a landing on Petermann Island.  Push took some much needed time off to rest his back while Sue kayaked her way silently around the island and got the best sighting of the Adelie penguins, a different species than we had otherwise seen.  I took the Zodiac across and walked the length of the island to see the penguins, albeit from a bit of a distance this time since they were on the beach below.  Although it was overcast and snowy, it did provide a nice contrast to the bright sun we had in the past few days.  After all, it’s Antarctica – how can you not have at least one cold snowy day?

After the landing it was back to the ship for lunch, a short nap (all this fresh air can get to you) and then back out in the Zodiacs for a tour of Pleneau Bay, also known as the iceberg graveyard, since many icebergs run aground here and never make it out again.  

                                      Pleneau Bay

This turned out to be a spectacular ride, not only because of the infinite variety of shapes these icebergs come in, or because of the incredible shades of blue we saw (which apparently were a result of the lack of sunshine this time, allowing the blue to come through more vividly), but because of what we saw around the corner of one of the icebergs.  Our expedition leader Tony called it by far the best thing he had seen on this trip so far.  And that was at least 30 seals foraging between two icebergs – swimming, diving, surfacing, snorting, rolling , and having a look at us, but certainly more interested in feeding on the krill that must have been extremely plentiful in this area.  It was quite a treat.  And not once, but three times they all surfaced and swam around before all diving back below the surface for another snack.  The surface of the water for about 20 metres square was literally alive with swimming seals.  Now you don’t see that at SeaWorld!

                                      A squadron of seals

After that it was back to the ship, and for those not faint of heart, the polar plunge!  Since there was not enough space on the deck out back of the ship where they do the plunge, spectators were not allowed, and since our one fearless adventurer was out of commission, we simply observed the plungers as they ran shivering down the halls and back to their cabins.   Then it was another lovely dinner, a little celebration of Greg and Melissa’s engagement where the serving staff prepared a happy engagement cake, and then Sea Spirit trivia in the lounge (no shuffleboard on the Lido deck here).  Now it’s off to bed.  Tomorrow we land in Port Lockroy, the southern most post office on the planet (and gift shop for that matter). So....

Until then......

Day 6: A continent with a view!

So the day dawned brightly again this morning as we prepared for yet another landing – this time on  Antarctica proper, specifically Neko Harbour.  Now this spot has to rank with the best views in the world.  So we landed on the continent and proceeded to frolic again with the gentoo penguins while we made our way up the long and winding trail to the top of the cliff that overlooked Neko Harbour.  It was a bit of slippery walk up with the sun shining and melting some of the surface snow.  But it couldn’t have been more perfect.  The notable Quark yellow parkas formed a continuous dotted line all the way up the mountain until it ended at a rock outcropping that overlooked the bay. And what a view!  Water as smooth as glass and a deep, dark midnight blue, white icebergs dotting the unbroken surface, and an icy blue glacial wall surrounding it all – magnificent!  One could not imagine a more special and unique place; so it was a lovely surprise to find that just as I was coming up to the summit I met Melissa who informed me that her boyfriend Greg who was right behind her had just proposed – now a very special place indeed!

                                         Neko Harbour

                                         The view of Neko Harbour

So after we returned to the ship we were treated to a special barbecue lunch on the outside upper deck.  I think the photo below says it all – surrounding icebergs, bright sunshine, good food and friends – what more could one want?

                                         Lunch on the upper deck

Then in the afternoon it was a landing at Paradise Bay – another stunning view! This trek up the hill was quite a bit more challenging – slippery snow and a vertical climb.  In the end it proved to be Push’s nemesis as he ended up putting out his back just before reaching the summit.  He reckons it was nature’s payback for him wishing a more exciting crossing of the Drake Passage.  Nature always gets her way in the end.  Anyway, while Push was incapacitated leaning against the rock outcropping, I snuck in a few photos both of the view and of him (he wasn’t going anywhere and I figured that one day we would look back on this and laugh and we should have some photographic proof).  So then it was up to Sue and I to half walk, half slide Push down the hill.  Some very nice women from Florida who were on their way down  offered to help and even offered to rub Push’s back for him.  In the end they sent some help up from below.  Push thanked them by sending them over some champagne during dinner.  So then it was back to the ship for Push for a visit to the doctor and the onboard massage therapist, and off in the zodiacs for Sue and I for a tour around Paradise Bay.  A quick note about the landing area – it’s called Almirante Brown Station which is an Argentinean scientific base, but it is currently under construction because the former doctor on the site was informed by the government that he had to spend another year on the base, and he didn’t want to, so he retaliated by burning it down.  Nobody is really sure whether he went to jail for it or whether he got off, but in any case, the base still bears the marks of his fiery exit.  So then it was the Zodiac tour which included some up close and personal visits with some Blue Shags (those are birds, by the way, not what you might be thinking) and 3 kinds of seals: fur,  Weddell , and leopard who were just lazing around on some icebergs.  You can see how close we were able to get by the photo below. There was also a good tour of the glacier where we witnessed a small avalanche of snow from the glacier into the water. 

                                         Lazing about...

Later in the afternoon, the expedition teams always does a recap and briefing in the lounge to get people caught up on the afternoon’s events.  It’s a good way to be reminded of the history and wildlife information which sometimes gets forgotten in the excitement of just watching the day unfold.  Then later that evening at dinner we celebrated Greg and Melissa’s engagement with a toast and a nice meal.  A perfect end to an almost perfect (sorry Push) day.  Tomorrow we pass through a very narrow channel called the Lemaire Channel which, if also filled with icebergs, could be quite a challenge for the captain and crew.  Should be exciting.

Until then......