Thursday, February 23, 2012

The Last Post

Each day the expedition team provided us with an itinerary of the day's events.  On that itinerary they always included a quotation which often characterized the day's events.  It was a lovely way to bring art into what otherwise may have seemed an overly scientific experience.  On the last day of the trip a member of the expedition team read aloud the following poem.  I thought it made a very nice close to what had been an extraordinary experience.



I, the albatross that waits for you at the end of the world...
I, the forgotten soul of the sailors lost that crossed Cape Horn from all the seas of the 
world.
But die they did not
in the fierce waves,
for today towards eternity
in my wings they soar
in the last crevice
of the Antarctic winds.

Sara Vial
December 1992

A long journey's day into night...and day...and night




                                    Show me the way to go home....from Ushuaia


So I was going to end the blog with a lot of philosophizing on the journey as a metaphor for life, of finding new things about oneself in the most unfamiliar of places;  I was even going to quote T.S. Eliot for pete’s sake, after all, “In my end is my beginning...” And I may still find a little energy to wax philosophic for a moment, but first, let me add to the collection of bad travel stories we all have.  Mine starts on the return leg of our trip, in Ushuaia, February 21, 2012.  So after all the good-byes, the collecting of email addresses from new friends, the photos, the packed bags, and the hugs, we land at Ushuaia to spend a stress-free day walking and shopping and killing time until our flight to Buenos Aires this evening.  Except for the fact that it is post-Carnaval and hardly anything is open.  Ok, we can still walk around, except that the main street is about 10 blocks long.  So what do we do with the remaining 8 hours?  Well, we did find a very cute little coffee shop which has Wi-fi.  So we plonked ourselves down, had a coffee and lunch and checked emails.  Soon some other passengers from the ship arrived, a trio of Czechs with whom we shared a lovely dinner one night.  We chatted for a while with them before they headed off on their camping trip around South America.  Eventually we left, spent more time re-walking the street, stopping into the few open shops and making  a few more souvenir purchases, making the best of it before heading over to the airport.  Finally we retrieved our luggage from the storage facility Quark provided us with, hopped in a cab and went to the airport.  All seemed well with the world.  We were tired but on our way.  We got to the airport, checked in, and were waiting patiently  at the gate when someone noticed that the plane that would carry us to Buenos Aires which was parked right outside at the gate, had the inflatable slide deployed.  And two flight attendants looking like Laurel and Hardy were trying to stuff it back into the plane while battling gale force winds.  It looked like they were trying to stuff a beachball through a mail slot.  In any case, this did not look good.  So after a while of waiting, watching, and finally talking to an airline official, it seemed that  some guy thought it would be interesting to pull the handle to the emergency door while the plane was on the tarmac.  Now kids, don’t try this at home, because not only will it get you thrown in jail and blacklisted from ever flying again, but it will make you very unpopular with the people who are waiting to get on the now useless plane, people who have been waiting all day to get on this plane and go home, or one step closer to home.  So when the police brought this guy through the waiting area it seemed as though it took every ounce of restraint for this crowd not to tear him to pieces.  So....to make a long story (and getting longer by the minute) short, two hours later we were taken to a local hotel, given a meal, a room to wait in, and a promise that we would be on another plane by 2 a.m.  Now here’s where the philosophical part comes in.  While waiting at the hotel I did happen to look out at the evening sky, and the light was absolutely magnificent.  The winds had picked up and were forming whitecaps on the water of the bay, the mountains were dotted with yellow light streaming through the clouds;  even a rainbow had formed and was arcing its way up from the water into the sky.  And I thought, once I get back to Toronto, as much as it’s nice to be home, and there certainly are some lovely sights there, I certainly won’t be seeing anything like this.  It’s like once again, Mother Nature’s grand power was a reminder;  but this time it was not a reminder of the overwhelming power of nature, it was a reminder not to take these wondrous sights for granted.  So I snapped a few photos, breathed in the sea air, and went inside to have a very nice dinner with some more new friends who were similarly confined as we were. 


                                    The light at the end of the journey - Ushuaia




                                                         The last supper


The rest of the end of this tale is fairly routine.  We got our plane, and thanks to some fancy logistics work from Push, still had our driver waiting to pick us up in Buenos Aires, still had rooms waiting for us at the hotel, and were able to get a little freshened up before stepping onto the next plane bound for Toronto.  In fact, we met up with some more shipmates at the airport who were sharing our flight and had a good visit with them.  When we finally reached Toronto 10 hours later, we may have been a little worse for wear, a little cramped, a little tired, but, and here comes the T.S. Eliot, we arrived at our destination which,  15 days ago, had been our departure.  But not only that, we had arrived changed.  We may have come back to our homes, our departure points, our beginnings, but we came back with new information, new outlooks, new knowledge.  We really had become ambassadors for Antarctica, because you can’t visit a brand new continent, a continent so well preserved, so unchanged, so fresh and unspoiled, and return to the ever changing rest of the world, without comparing.  And there is definitely something to be said for preservation, especially when that preservation comes in the form of monolithic icebergs gleaming blue and white in the sun, or curious penguins waddling up to peck at your muddy boots, or seals lifting their heads only long enough to see that you are not a natural predator and going back to relaxing – yes, we humans, not natural predators.  Where else on earth can we say that, either to the natural world or to each other?  So, “In my end is my beginning...” and here’s to a new beginning for all of us that takes us to another end, another beginning and on and on as long as the cycle will carry us.
Until then....